The Land of Ice and Fire

On April 2023, we had the opportunity to visit a marvelous place; a land of glaciers, geysers, and volcanoes, and we fell in love with its stunning natural beauty, its rugged landscapes, and its unique and breathtaking black sand beaches.

Welcome to Iceland, the land of Ice and Fire and one of the most unbelievable places we have ever visited.

Iceland is a relatively small country, yet it is full of breathtaking beauty on every corner. We spent six days there and focused on exploring the island's southern region.

Getting there

We took off from Boston Logan International at 07:15 p.m. on a flight operated by PLAY, a new Icelandic airline that offers low-cost flights between North America and Europe. It was our first time flying with PLAY, and we had an enjoyable experience: comfortable chairs, hot meals (a la carte), and friendly staff.

After four and a half hours, we landed at Keflavik International Airport (KEF) on the island's Southern Peninsula and around 45 minutes from Reykjavik, Iceland's capital and the world's northernmost capital city.

Day 1: Reykjavik

After picking up our rental near the airport, we drove for about an hour to the city. It was pretty early in the morning so that we could explore the empty streets and be amazed, by their impressive infrastructure, cute and well-maintained streets, and amazing sights, like the Hallgrímskirkja, Iceland's most prominent church, and Reykjavik's most iconic symbol.

However, by the time we landed, our internal clock was set to 02:00 (Boston time), and our bodies were demanding some good sleep, so we did. Around noon, local time, we woke up and got ready to explore Iceland's marvelous capital.

Day 2: The Golden Circle

We woke up early, had breakfast (which was included in the room), and headed north to The Golden Circle, the most famous of all scenic routes in Iceland.  

Stop 1: Thingvellir National Park

Neil and I are huge fans of the amazing race. In S34 E11, the teams had to snorkel in the frigid waters of Silfra, the tectonic boundary between North America and Eurasia, and memorize a list of volcano names and years of eruption. Ever since we watched that episode, we put Snorkeling in Silfra on our bucket list; when we decided to go to Iceland, that was the first activity we booked, and we could not be happier that we did.

Stop 2: Gamla Laugin

After facing the freezing cold waters of Silfra, we drove for about 45 minutes to Gamla Laugin, also known as The Secret Lagoon, Iceland's oldest geothermal pool. We had initially considered leaving this activity for the end of the day. However, we were kind of tired after Silfra, so we decided to soak in the warm waters to soothe our minds and bodies before continuing our adventures.

Stop 3: Friðheimar

This is one of Iceland's most iconic tomato farms and a clear example of greenhouse agriculture using geothermal energy. The farm produces a staggering 370 tons of tomatoes throughout the year and offers visitors a tomato-inspired selection of dishes to consume alongside the crops.

We forgot to book a table; however, that was not an issue since they let you walk freely through the place to enjoy the crops, see the bees and even grab a drink or a quick meal at the bar.

Stop 4: Faxi Waterfall

A wide and tranquil waterfall with a restaurant on-site, where you can enjoy lunch with a beautiful view. Hiking through the countryside around Faxi was a pleasure, and we encountered some Icelandic horses.  

Stop 5: Geysir Hot Spring Area

We had lunch there and did a quick hike in the area, where we saw firsthand the World Famous Geyser and the lively Strokkur geyser, which spouts water 30 meters (100 ft) into the air every 10 minutes, approximately.

Adjacent to the Hot Springs is the Geyser Center, a gorgeous multipurpose building with cafes, restaurants, and shops. Its decor pays homage to glíma, a unique form of Icelandic folk wrestling dating from the time of the Vikings.

Stop 6: Gullfoss Waterfall

After a quick drive, we got to the "Golden Waterfall," one of Iceland's most iconic and powerful waterfalls. It was windy and overcast, but that did not interfere with the astonishing views of the Waterfall.

Around 05:30 pm, we finished our sightseeing and started our three hours drive to Stracta Apartments, our home for the next two nights. Most people do the Golden Circle in a day and then head back to Reykjavik. However, our destination for day three is 374 km from the city, and it takes approximately 5 hours to drive. Therefore, we decided to cover some ground on day two and set the course to Skaftárhreppur.

Halfway to our destination, we stopped for gas in the small town of Hvolsvöllur and had a pit stop at Eldsto Art Cafe, where we had some pastries and coffee.

Day 3: The Land of Ice

This day was all about ice as we explored Ice Caves at Vatnajökull National Park. We started the day with coffee and snacks and headed west towards Jökulsárlón, where we met our tour guides.

The scenic drive from our hotel took about 90 minutes, during which the rugged landscape, sharp cliffs, volcanoes, and even art reminded us of the power of nature.

Once in Jökulsarlon, you will find a free parking lot with food trucks and restrooms. There are multiple tour agencies and their respective Super Jeeps, and after 30 minutes F-roading, you will reach the foot of the glacier.

Stop 1: Ice caves and exploration tour at Jökulsarlon.

Ice caves are formed during the colder months and melt during the warmer ones. We had the last chance to see them this season and were so lucky that the rain held off that day.

The weather could not have been better; there was no rain, and the color of pure glacier ice left us mesmerized, the deepest blues only compared to the ones we saw at Silfra. The tour of the glacier lasted for about 6 hours, and once back in the parking lot, we had some Icelandic hot dogs.

Stop 2: Skaftafell

On the way back to our hotel, we stopped by Skaftafell for a 2-mile roundtrip hike. The path is well-taken care of, and there is even an amphitheater at the base of the waterfall. Additionally, for those camping, the site offers a campground with excellent facilities.

Day 4: The South Coast

We spent the day touring the many impressive sites the southern coastline has to offer. This day was a fantastic mix of adventures, from sea cliffs to black volcanic beaches, waterfalls, and valleys.

Stop 1: Fjaðrárgljúfur

The first stop of the day was the beautiful and dramatic Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon. It rained so hard, but that did not stop us. We walk along the canyon to the top, enjoying the majestic views in all directions. At the end of the hike, an observation platform was built overlooking Mögárfoss waterfall.

We ended up soaking wet and hungry after our hike, so once we got to Vik, we stopped to dry off and grabbed lunch at the Ice Cave Bistro before continuing our adventures. The restaurant is located inside the huge shopping center, where we bought some Icelandic apparel to keep us dry during the rest of our journey.  

Stop 2: Reynisfjara Beach

One of the most breathtaking, literally and figuratively, places on earth. We spend about 45 minutes walking alongside the shore, contemplating the killer beauty of the North Atlantic Ocean and delighted by the twisting hexagonal shapes of the basalt columns.

Stop 3: Dyrhólaey and Reynisfjara's viewpoints.

There is a castle-shaped lighthouse and multiple viewpoints on the cliffs offering stunning views from a distance of Reynisfjara (Black Sand beach) as well as Dyrholaey, which translates to "the hill island with the door hole." It was a lovely place to take photos of the sea and admire the waves crashing into the rocks.

It is worth mentioning that the area is exceptionally windy, so windproof clothing is a must if you plan to stay longer and hike around.  There is a parking lot with restrooms and very well-made paths to walk around.

Stop 4: Kvernufoss

Our next destination was Kvernufoss, a less-known hidden waterfall near Skógafoss. You have to hike through a beautiful valley for about 10 minutes to get there. It is a pretty scenic hike because of the river and the gorge, and once you cross a small hill, Kvernufoss appears in its full glory.

Stop 5: Skógafoss

And we finally made it to Skógafoss, one of Iceland's biggest waterfalls, with a drop of  60 meters and a width of 25 meters. The most amazing part is that the land underneath the waterfall is flat, allowing you to walk right up to the wall of water, which we did, of course.

I wish we had more time to explore this marvelous waterfall, there are steps that you can climb to the top of Skogafoss, and it is also the starting point for the Fimmvörðuháls hike.

Stop 6: Seljalandsfoss

Our last stopped before heading to the Hotel and the last opportunity to get wet. There is no hiking required, and you can see the falls from the road if you were just to drive past.

Our time there was really brief, yet remarkable. The night was setting, and the rain and wind were at their peak, but that did not stop us, apparently, we were chasing waterfalls that day.

Day 5: Reykjavik

This was technically our last day of adventures, and we were no short of things to do yet, so we woke up early, grabbed a hearty meal, and hit the road.

Stop 1: Raufarholshelli

Raufarholshelli, also known as the lava tunnel, is one of the longest lava tunnels in Iceland, and it is located roughly 30 minutes away from the capital city. Once there, we were greeted by friendly staff who provided the necessary equipment to comfortably walked the icy path down to the tunnel, a path of lava that flowed thousands of years ago.

We took the Standard Lava Tour because of time constraints; however, if you are into spelunking, you should consider the adventure tour, which takes you into the tunnel depths for about four hours.

The cave itself is gorgeous, and the impressive lighting system showcases the tunnel, ensuring we can appreciate all the magic that Raufarholshellir offers. Our favorite part was to see the icy formations over the rainbow-colored walls, and how they slowly disappear as you go deeper into the tunnel.  

Stop 2: Whale-watching tour

April to September is the best time to see whales in Iceland, so we decided to test our luck and go offshore to try to see them.

Also, an excellent opportunity to enjoy the beautiful and stark scenery, contemplate the city from afar, and enjoy the magnificence of the ocean.

We were so lucky and got to see them.

Stop 3: The Sky Lagoon

And after several days of adventures, we could not have thought of a better way to finish our Icelandic adventure than relaxing in the soothing waters of the Sky Lagoon. We took this time to disconnect, left phones and cameras in, and just relax and unwind as we soaked in the geothermal water and experienced the unique sky lagoon seven-step ritual.

The Spa, as well as the entire experience, is out of this world. We stayed there for a few hours and felt energized and inspired.

Stop 4: Night Cap at Magic Ice Reykjavik

We opted for a nightcap at Magic Ice, an ice-art gallery with sculptures and a bar made of crystal-clear ice.

Day 6: Back Home

We spent the day doing some last-time shopping and enjoying the final moments, then we headed back to the airport, returned our rental, and, around 03:00 p.m., took a plane back to Boston.

Would you like to budget for this adventure? Read our detailed budget for our trip.